Thank you!
So I guess originally the blue on both the spine and cover looked like the blue on this picture (not of a first print):
http://tolkienbooks.net/php/details.php?reference=64140
All copies on ebay and abebooks have fading (blue to gray) on the spine, seems it needs to be stored on a custom clam-shell or kept completely in the dark.
So I guess originally the blue on both the spine and cover looked like the blue on this picture (not of a first print):
http://tolkienbooks.net/php/details.php?reference=64140
All copies on ebay and abebooks have fading (blue to gray) on the spine, seems it needs to be stored on a custom clam-shell or kept completely in the dark.
Correct (see post #5 for my copy). I keep mine and the 1st print sil in a drawer, rather than on the shelf, so hopefully the red on the Sil and the Blue on the Unfinished Tales will stay in good condition.
I may have been a bit lucky to find these lifetime-boxed copies. It was a few years back, and the guy had a few of each, but from memory most of the UTs were second impressions, and he only had a couple of firsts in the box.
I may have been a bit lucky to find these lifetime-boxed copies. It was a few years back, and the guy had a few of each, but from memory most of the UTs were second impressions, and he only had a couple of firsts in the box.
Morinehtar wrote:
Do you think he might have some left?
It was a good few years back and he was a book dealer, so I very much doubt it!! Very pleasant guy from memory.
What about the Clowes vs Billing? I've seen the Clowes copies command a higher price but they also seem to be more common, though this might just be a coincidence at this time.
Is there any noticeable difference to quality?
Is there any noticeable difference to quality?
I don't actually have a Clowes copy. Khamul is your man with regards to The Silmarillion.
There are a few different states, if that takes your collecting fancy. If I ever see a really fine Clowes, I'll probably pick one up, but usually it is too much effort to chase up eBay sellers and find out which copy they are selling.
There are a few different states, if that takes your collecting fancy. If I ever see a really fine Clowes, I'll probably pick one up, but usually it is too much effort to chase up eBay sellers and find out which copy they are selling.
Follow-up PM sent.
I think maybe I just worry too much.
The copy with minimal bubbling is a Clowes, so I think its worth it. Since that is the only defect I think you can grade it as F book with NF jacket with no fading. I mean this is a book that is 40 years old anyways and you can't expect perfection - in fact looks better than a lot of new books I get on mail!
Regarding UT there are no decent copies out there right now. I will just wait for now.
I think maybe I just worry too much.
The copy with minimal bubbling is a Clowes, so I think its worth it. Since that is the only defect I think you can grade it as F book with NF jacket with no fading. I mean this is a book that is 40 years old anyways and you can't expect perfection - in fact looks better than a lot of new books I get on mail!
Regarding UT there are no decent copies out there right now. I will just wait for now.
Morinehtar wrote:
Follow-up PM sent.
I think maybe I just worry too much.
The copy with minimal bubbling is a Clowes, so I think its worth it. Since that is the only defect I think you can grade it as F book with NF jacket with no fading. I mean this is a book that is 40 years old anyways and you can't expect perfection - in fact looks better than a lot of new books I get on mail!
Regarding UT there are no decent copies out there right now. I will just wait for now.
I tend to think you can expect fairly close to perfection on common titles, even taking into account the age. Remember the 250,000 copy print run! If not close to perfect, the book should at least be fairly cheap!
Thanks for all your help!
Now I have a much better idea of what these should look like and what price is acceptable. There are copies with faded spines priced above $200 and really good copies at $50-75. Its all about patience and being willing to spend time requesting several pictures from each seller.
Now I have a much better idea of what these should look like and what price is acceptable. There are copies with faded spines priced above $200 and really good copies at $50-75. Its all about patience and being willing to spend time requesting several pictures from each seller.
Honestly, the prices that have been mentioned in this thread are nuts. Don't pay anywhere near £50/$50+ for either of these books in any condition. They are, especially The Silmarillion, ten-a-penny on auction sites like eBay; auctions finish with no bids all the time i.e. supply far exceeds demand.
Nowadays I wouldn't spend more than £10 on a standard 1977 copy of The Silmarillion unless there was some particular feature that really interested me e.g. a variant I don't have or some other interesting and unique point. Admittedly I do seek out copies with things other collectors probably aren't interested in, like copies with interesting previous ownership markings, ex-library copies, rebinds, etc; but for standard variants it's just about identifying them with good questioning & being persistent.
I do understand the wish to acquire copies with unfaded DJ spines; and that can be difficult. But if you're not going to buy every variant out there then how many copies of the standard 1977 edition are you looking to own? A Billing 1st state, a Clowes 1st state, and a BCA edition? Shouldn't be too difficult to track down that kind of number in F/F condt.
A word of warning: there are several states of both the Clowes & Billing printings; most of them are unrecorded in Hammond. Deagol (at tolkienbooks.net) has far more detail, but even his site doesn't have everything that's out there. If these things really matter to you, then be prepared to be disappointed quite often. It's reasonably hard to pin down a seller to provide photos & descriptions which help you identify everything that might be important to you as a collector: the printer, whether the jacket is priced, the binding, headbands, top-page edge dye, map positioning within the book, errors within the text, etc. Auctions with claims about priority, "true first edition" status (god, I hate that description!), etc, should generally be avoided. You decide priority, not the seller. You are far more likely to know more about the edition than the seller if you're the kind of collector who frequents this forum...
BH
Nowadays I wouldn't spend more than £10 on a standard 1977 copy of The Silmarillion unless there was some particular feature that really interested me e.g. a variant I don't have or some other interesting and unique point. Admittedly I do seek out copies with things other collectors probably aren't interested in, like copies with interesting previous ownership markings, ex-library copies, rebinds, etc; but for standard variants it's just about identifying them with good questioning & being persistent.
I do understand the wish to acquire copies with unfaded DJ spines; and that can be difficult. But if you're not going to buy every variant out there then how many copies of the standard 1977 edition are you looking to own? A Billing 1st state, a Clowes 1st state, and a BCA edition? Shouldn't be too difficult to track down that kind of number in F/F condt.
A word of warning: there are several states of both the Clowes & Billing printings; most of them are unrecorded in Hammond. Deagol (at tolkienbooks.net) has far more detail, but even his site doesn't have everything that's out there. If these things really matter to you, then be prepared to be disappointed quite often. It's reasonably hard to pin down a seller to provide photos & descriptions which help you identify everything that might be important to you as a collector: the printer, whether the jacket is priced, the binding, headbands, top-page edge dye, map positioning within the book, errors within the text, etc. Auctions with claims about priority, "true first edition" status (god, I hate that description!), etc, should generally be avoided. You decide priority, not the seller. You are far more likely to know more about the edition than the seller if you're the kind of collector who frequents this forum...
BH